I'm endlessly fascinated by gravestones. They are small novels in themselves and all the better for being true biographies; although exceedingly brief, they are written with love and as much accuracy as those who left behind could bare to reveal.
What a story this family had:
In Memory of Christopher McLean, Mariner, who died in Annan 25th Nov. 1831 Aged 29 years. Also James & James his children who died in infancy. Also his son, William McLean, Mariner, who died at Sea on the 20th June 1842, aged 16 years. His Body was committed to a Watery Grave Latitude 49N Longitude 21W
Though in the Seamy Body ly,
Mong many of our Fleet,
Ere long we will Set Sail again,
Our Admiral Christ to meet.
Also Janet Lang, Widow of the above Christopher McLean who died at Annan 30th April 1887, aged 90 years .
(I think the co-ordinates lie somewhere in the mid-Atlantic)
I've been travelling this section for work and pleasure for many years now, and this will take at least 5 minutes every day off my journey to work, I've calculated that as 42 hours a year .... oh I am so chuffed!!
All that plus it will be massively safer than the old situation, the one I felt strongly enough to rant about almost three years ago.
I've seen it develop slowly over the last two years, and all credit to the scheme managers because I think I've only been held up twice and I think that was nothing to do with the roadworks.
I'm so excited I might even go to work early today!!!
Get someone Scottish to say the above phrase to you. In fact, if possible, get someone from Partick to say it: it would then be a Partick tickler in particular.
We visited Barhill Wood near Kirkcudbright yesterday - we'd heard it was a great bluebell wood but the view from the carpark wasn't promising much. But look what's over the hill!!
So we had another trip up to Argyll a couple of weeks ago (17th-19th March) because it coincided with B's birthday.
We booked at the Dunchraigaig House B&B again, it was fab last time we went so of course had to go back there. B was already looking forward to the breakfasts a week before we left home.
I can't blog in extreme detail about the wheres and whyfores because sadly I've not anymore got the luxury of being able to sit at my desk all day!!
We set off in good time and the weather was predicted to be chuffing marvellous, and it didn't disappoint. Better than last September when it rained for most of our visit. We took the M74 (ages since I last went up that road) but at Glasgow the roadworks led us onto the old A74 so we had a bit of a merry jolly through the rougher parts of town, past the Celtic football social club etc, but took note of the massive rash of new flats being built in that area. Anyway the traffic wasn't bad at all so we made it through to the M8 without pain.
Taking the scenic route via Dumbarton M&S, Helensburgh & Faslane peacecamp (resisted the flickr moment), there were some lovely views especially when we got up to the Rest & Be Thankful. Stopped there to take some photos (doesn't everyone?), carried on through Inverary and past the site of the Connect Festival (looks completely different in daylight - last time we were there we opted to dice with the traffic along the main road rather than take the swampy route back to the car)
We stopped by at Achnabreck rock art to discover that the carpark was closed for repair - however we found a good place to park further up the track at the top of the hill, which we wouldn't have know about otherwise! We followed a path from here right to the new panels, which were still covered in tarp. The good-old "hollywood" panels were further round the hill and I had a wander around while B took his photos.
then back to the B&B, and off out for a meal at the Carinbaan Hotel. Now let's get this straight right from the start - we were absolute PIGS on this trip and ate ourselves silly. We had three courses when we didn't really need it, because the menu was wonderful and the food completely gorgeous. We returned the next night, because there were things on the list we still wanted to try!!
We visited Whithorn on Easter Sunday. There were lots of visitors there enjoying the view or the history ... I was doing this too of course but I was strangely drawn to the pebbles on the beach ...
I think this one is some sort of mudstone. There are some glints of quartz in the brown but it needed brightened up.
I used some terracotta beads from a necklace I bought in Lockerbie charity shop, with peyote stitching. I was going to add some embellishments but after wearing it on a simple bit of leather I can say that it does feel finished, and very nice the play with ;-)
During my lunch break yesterday I drove a couple of miles north to a place I've found next to a field with pigs in it - they are quite entertaining. There's about 4-5 in there but they are usually spread out and rooting and digging about with their snouts.
I had my camera with me and when a plane went overhead I snapped that too. This was quite close to the brand new Stephen's Croft Power Station which was due to be opened that day by the First Minister for Scotland Alex Salmond..... I thought I would see some interesting activity there but alas all I got was this lousy plane.
So after we had breakfast at our snug, clean B&B and visited a gorgeous prehistoric viewpoint, we headed south to Inveraray to the Connect Festival.
Connect was organised by the same people as T in the Park, and having been to that one (years ago) I had a certain expectation about the atmosphere, in that it would be completely different to our local festies at home. I was expecting teenagers and mud - and that just about sums it up! Boutique festival, my arse (I pity his lordship).
We arrived about 11am, slightly apprehensive about the parking arangements because they were trying to encourage people to get the bus there (not really practical for us on our way back home). There was in fact plenty of space but on marshland. They'd put temporary metal "roads" over the grass so far but after that - good luck! The trick was not to stop. We found this out the hard way and got stuck reversing into a space, requiring three burly blokes to lift the nose up while I backed in, splatttering the car and myself because I had the window open to shout "heave!"
We then started the long long long path to the main gates and festival entrance. We were fighting against a tide of weary, hungover, laiden people carrying their tents and worldly goods back to the cars after a wet night. They looked tired and miserable and were mostly determined to hog the central higher ground of the muddy path, travelling headlong into us if we didn't get out of the way. "Take no prisoners!" ... this was a bad introduction ot the festival and made us almost as miserable as they looked.
When we arrived in to the main area, we found the stalls to be very tacky and predicable, I swear one of them even had a Kiss me quick hat.
The first food stalls we found were dire. We didn't realise there were more burgers vans to be found at each of the stages so had to take our chances with the ones here; the Stoats van had the longest queue we'd ever seen (apart from the one to the toilets) because most people by now realised that porridge was by far the best food here. I bet the Stoats boys made some huge money that weekend.
Enough moaning! We came here to enjoy music.
Well our first target was to familiarise ourselves with the location of the two main stages, then to find ourself at the right one in time for Newton Faulkner... the "Guitars and other machines" stage was at the opposite end of the patch to the "Oyster Stage"... with a narrow bottleneck inbetween, again a very muddy path the opened into an even muddier space where the game was to find the high ground.
I kept telling meself it wasn't as bad as pics I've seen of Glasto. That's OK, then. I couldn't get round the fact that not only were there people here wearing white shoes and trousers, but that some of them managed to keep clean! they should have got a special prize.
Enough moaning!
So we found the Guitar Stage and parked in front of it; first up were The Kissaway Trail - never heard of them... from Denmark, young and rocky, quite entertaining but not really our cuppa... when they'd finished we made sure we moved away from the speakers a bit ...
Enough moaning!
Newton Faulkner came on to a smallish crowd which grew as people arrived to investigate. I'd heard his stuff on the radio and B has constantly played the CD in his car for the last few weeks, plus the album is number one. We were right at the front, got a good measure of the bloke - not as tall as expected, and not as hunky as some of his promotional stuff! Ginger dreadlocks - I mean, the PR people had their work cut out with that didn't they!
Newton was fab - good rapport and banter, on the stage alone with no band, held the audience in the proverbial palm. Fantastic! Brilliant guitarist and obviously used to playing on his own in much smaller venues, using his guitar as percussion as well as melody. Did that thing where the left hand plucks as well as making the chords, while his right hand slapped and drumed on the box. Wonderfully strong voice, perfect tone, explained the songs with a little story. Made a mental note to recommend him to people who like Nick Harper or Martin Stephenson. Great stuff!
Here's Newton playing "Teardrop" at connect:
So after Newton putting a smile on our faces, we hung around and watched Tilly and the Wall set up. Of course not having heard of them before either, we thought it was the roadies setting up but it was them; wondered what that round thing with the microphone was they were setting on the floor - turned out to be a tapdancing board! A joyous experience, helped by the student-types standing next to us who knew every word, I decided they must be well known and I go around with my ears shut. I soon realised why I hadn't heard of them though - cos I don't buy the right magazines but mainly because they are highly unlikely to be played ont radio cos of all the effing! Great fun, visually interesting and very entertaining. I would say they are somewhere between Riverdance, Steps and B-52's (they wish).
We next had to make our way to the main stage to check out Regina Spektor - I like her CD and wanted to see what she's like live - the answer is just the same as her CD - almost word for word and plink for plonk. Russian version of Tori Amos (she wishes). I enjoyed it, but we made the right decision to head off early to make it back to the Guitar stage in time to get a good pitch for watching Seth Lakemen...
Seth brought his band with him - I presume it was his brother Sean on guitar. Sean looks so much like Jack dee, he even has the sneery smile. Enjoyed Seth a great deal - we've seen him before at Solfest last year and this was better cos he drew a much larger crowd, including dancers who couldn't help jigging to the fiddling:
Now for the grand finale. There was nothing after Björk that we wanted to see, so this was gonna be it for us at Connect. I was sooooo excited, been looking forward to seeing her live for ages, I've danced round the living room like an idiot many a time to her mental music!
I was escatic! What a goddess... she did not disappoint! I was bouncing like a kid, pogoing and shouting the words, watching her from the corner of the stage doing her thang... fantastic show, new stuff and old. Enjoyed every second of it and I'm still grinning now just thinking about it :-D
I got B to take this pic of me - I know it's crap, I took my old camera with me, but I quite like it!
Found this great clip on youtube of Declare Independance, which was the finale and the crowd went insane, including me! What a crescendo! Lasers and exploding glitter! Screamin' "Raise your Flag! Higher, Higher!"
So that was it - I was on such a high and I can recall it so clearly now, that I'm not gonna bring it down by telling you the finer details of our painful traipse back to the car, or the 3+ hour journey back to Carlisle.
Did I mention how wonderful the Dunchraigaig House B&B was? This morning it was Mull cheddar and chive muffins to take for our lunch. Lush.
After packing and settling up, we set off slightly south and stopped at Dunadd fort. It's one of the sites on the Half Life tour so there was the obligatory poster at the gate, and we parked and set off on the short walk up the hill.
It was a clearer morning so the views were fab! We could see over to Ardfern again, and probably the hill that Ormaig hugs, if we knew which one it was. The nature reserves sit nearby, covered in heather patches and bog grasses.
Last night's moisture ensured that there was water inside the footprint. There isn't any cup-an-ring stuff here but there is a vague carving of a boar, very faint now but a cottage at the bottom of the fort has helpfully provided a modern copy of what it may have looked like.
We explored around the top of the hill - it's quite sheltered at the top and it's clear why someone would choose to use this place not only as a viewpoint but also as a possible home. There is an old well and some of the walls remain.
There was a Half Life installation here but again we couldn't be sure if it was in its final format as it didn't officially "open" until the next day. What we saw was sheets of rusted metal sheeting shaped to slot into the gaps withing the natural craggy entranceway at the top of the fort. Perhaps there would be music eminating or lights projected in future - couldn't say - but the rust-red colour of the sheets fitted quite nicely with the autumnal bracken and purple heather.
Then it was time to head off to Inveraray and Connect ...
So we'd managed to blag ourselves some tickets for the Biggest Thing In Town... was it all hype? They'd done a very good job advertising it, every visitor to the Argyll area and Kilmartin in particular was very aware that it was happening, with suitably enigmatic posters up near all the major sites and fliers in the cafes and B&B's.
There were to be two evening perfomances, 8.30 and 10.30. The 8.30 was full so 10.30 was to be, due to get back at 12.30.
Our mission (should we choose to accept it) was to arrive at the meeting point in Lochgilphead to get bussed to the site, with instructions to wrap up warm for sitting outside. It wasn't made clear where the event was happening (or indeed what it was to involve) but we were fairly certain it was to be near Achnabreck, because there's a large forest around it and plenty of parking space.
So we drove and parked and found the tent and handed over our tickets and got a little book and sat and waited. The time came and everyone piled onto the old double-deckers, we could hardly all get on the seats for the fleecy waterproofs etc! It had been a drier day with nothing heavier than drizzle, but you never know up here.
We got talking (or rather talked at) by one of the people working on the show - a local woman who was getting rather excited. She said she wouldn't give it away but it was great and then (well, she kept giving stuff away!)
After a short trip of maybe 10 minutes, we arrived at the site. Everyone had been gossiping excitedly, all typical local accents of course (so most of them sounded like retired art teachers from Surrey). It was dark so we weren't really sure where we were! We were herded off the bus and up the hill, passed the shipping containers which presumably acted as dressing rooms for the performers.
The path was lit and we followed the leader until we reached the top, where we were handed a foam shape for our bums to sit on. The "stage" was there shouting at us, lit in red and yellow, all spikey and spooky between the trees.
The seats were wooden decks on a terrace which looked as if it was pretty permanent. The chatty woman on the bus had told us that they were keeping it here and they'd already had enquiries about weddings...
There was a small "shed" to the left of the "stage" where the musicians lived, they had just enough light to see what they were doing and we could see inside the netting - two people with what turned out to be strings and percussion.
By the way, when I say "stage", I find it hard to describe what we were looking at really. It was obviously the centre of our attention, clearly constructed from felled trees from the location, huge logs held together to form a raised platform with a thorny crown heading up towards the trees. Surrounding it were existing trees, moving in the wind.
I did my best to capture this without a flash, but it was difficult!
I won't be too specific about the performance, because we didn't know what to expect and were pleasantly surprised at what we got. There were three main actors, plus two characters which had it been Shakespeare would have probably been called "spirits". One star of the show who won't be in the programme was the bat, who was swooping to snack on the insects attracted by the lights during the show. Nice touch!
Ropes and pulleys and strong bodies were involved. References were made to the prehistory of the area, specifically rock art and burials and death and what it all means ...
The music was metallic and non-melodic, adding to the atmosphere together with the shwooshing of the trees in the quieter bits.
The play (for that is what it was, really, despite pretentions) lasted about an hour and there were a few gasps and chatters from the audience... the seating area was far from full but after all this was after all probably a dress-rehearsal.
After the ovation we filtered out, all handed back our arsepads and headed back downhill, past the frogs and logs and back onto the bus to Lochgilphead.
I was smiling all the way back, the bus was buzzing and folk were talking about the best bits; this was a great addition to the experience and something you wouldn't get from a normal night at the theatre (unless you spend your time in the bar)
Thinking about it now, I could have benefitted from a flask of hot choc for the bus back, or perhaps the "beer tent" at the start could have had more than booklets to hand out ... a wee nip to take the nip off as't'were ...
I would also say that if there's anyone coming to this event who doesn't know much about the history of the area, and they come just for this performance, it's a shame that they don't know how close they are to one of the most important rock art sites in the country. We were expecting this to play much more of a part in the whole thing, not just verbally but physically. But we're biased, perhaps.
So back to the B&B and ready for the next day, when we would visit one of the participating sites and stop off at Connect...
Last Friday, we travelled up to Argyll on a small break to Kilmartin Glen.
The drive up through Glasgow and around the Clyde was painless and quite interesting because I hadn't been past the Faslane area before (big boats!)
When we passed Inveraray, we caught a preview of the situation at the Connect Festival, which we were heading back to on the Sunday... it's quite a small town and when we passed mid-afternoon looked quite civilised.
When we arrived at the Glen, our first stop was at Cairnbaan. Last time we came here (April 2005) we'd taken one look at the climb involved and decided life was too short! This time, we eagerly donned our walking boots and headed on up. Phew! Quite a sharp haul up a tight path now hidden behind some new houses...through the trees... and onto the hillside. The carvings were marked out by a fenced area. A short time later, after settling into the photographing bit, we were joind by a delivery van that had driven up a track. Doh!
I entertained myself looking at the views both back down across the Crinan Canal to Lochgilphead and up to Kilmartin, studying sedums and doing killer sudoku. See B's photos of Cairnbaan here
After returning down the hill to the car we drove towards Kilmartin itself, to check into our B&B, Dunchraigaig House. It's a cute little place, immaculate inside with nice surroundings and our room overlooked the Ballymeanoch stones!
Ballymeanoch stones
We ventured back out for dinner, fancied the Kilmartin House Restaurant (at the Museum) but found it closed, so went across the road to the Kilmartin Hotel. It's a traditional pub, which tries to do nice meals but we were a bit disappointed. Clean but basic, you might say.
Next morning we enjoyed a wonderful breakfast, fruit salad first then porridge and a fry-up - yum! Plus, home-made lemon & raisin muffins!
We got talking to a photographer bloke who was staying there, working on the Half Life project. We'd first heard of it from Janet at the Rock Art Meeting in June and were keen to find out more. The whole village seemed to be buzzing about it! It wasn't due to start until Monday night, but apparently there was going to be a preview of the preview, that very night... Locals who had taken part, helpers and limited interested parties had been invited to attend. Hmmm......
Well first we got our arses in gear and headed off to find Ormaig. Firstly, we needed a map, so stopped off at the Kilmartin Museum. A piece of art caught my eye which I resisted... for now!
The walk to Ormaig started at Carnasserie Castle carpark, and headed up the track behind and up the hill. It was made easier by the black arrowed markers, directing people to the planned Half Life installation at the stones ...
Carnasserie Castle
The weather was dull and misty - it had been raining and more was expected but the result was that we were carrying lots of gear and getting very sweaty in the humidity!
The walk took us up and through a forested area, the signs continued all the way, and when we reached about 3/4 of the route, we found a decent road which before long brought us at least three cars, one of them containing the photographer from breakfast! Doh again!
It took us about an hour in total to reach Ormaig. Yes there is a track through the quarry, but apparently you need permission to use it. Hmmm.... you're not telling me that all those folk asked first!
We descended down to a level where there was a nice view across Loch Craignish to Ardfern marina. The carvings were only about 200 metres from the track through the trees. Wow! Lots of lovely deep rosettes, cups and runnels, on several panels some still with trees growing around them. It's clear that there had been work going on to clear the area, but apart from the mozzie machine there was little sign of activity yet. No Half Life "installation" that we saw - too early perhaps.
Ormaig
B spent 2.5 hours taking photographs here! I spent my time reading the instructions on the mozzie trapper and watching a dragonfly, and occasionally being drafted in to hold the flash unit. Forgot my sudoku.
Up the hill again, picking and eating some brambles on the way. We stopped off at the Museum for tea and cakes (stopped serving lunch at 3, fair enough) and I bought the artwork that had been calling my name. It's done in embroidery onto silk and other materials, called "Rock Carvings (2)" by Christine Mackenzie. It's got Ormaig rosettes and mimics the fissures in the rock. Lovely!
So while we were at the museum, we broached the subject of tonight's Half Life show, and the girls in the little room serving as boxoffice told us that our B&B host had tipped them off that we might drop by for some tickets! Hoorah! Gratis! How fantastic! Very chuffed....
Remember this guy? If you're British and of a certain age, this was the star of the road safety campaign for kids - where Willy Weasel comes a cropper.
Anyhoo - Tufty was a red squirrel. Not a grey. The red squirrel was the variety that during the 1970's was familiar to people across Britain - but it is extinct in most areas now, save for a few pockets.
This is a shocking fact. The reason for this is that not only is the beefier, foreign grey squirrel muscling in on the reds' patch, it's bringing with it a deadly disease, Squirrel Pox, which is officially Not Very Nice.
Oh, and how could I forget - Beatrix Potter's Squirrel Nutkin is also a red!
The red squirrel has got to be one of the most endearing creatures, and not just because they are in childrens' stories. If you've ever met one while out and about, you'll know that this can be the highlight of the day - a smiley moment to savour. We met one near the Cree - it ran in front of us and scooted up a tree and I'll never forget it staring back with those beady black eyes, while furiously nibbling on a pine cone.
So, one of the ways we can save the red is to not run over them in cars... The other, is to try to protect it from the pox. This can be by keeping a barrier between the two species, or by vaccination. A vaccine hasn't yet been developed, so we are left with the horrifying fact that if we want to save the reds, we must cull the greys. See? I can't even say kill.
A few goodly people are organising themselves to try and save the red squirrel. They are extremely noble in my opinion and so I decided to do my bit here, and also donate some hard cash to the cause, so that they can do the deed and I can sleep a bit sounder knowing someone vastly more dedicated than me is making it their passion.
So please please, with tufty red ears on top, donate some money after reading all about these gorgeous creatures and all about the projects being organised.
And if you see one, alive or dead, anywhere in the areas listed (or anywhere else) - or indeed if you see a grey (bloody well hope not) - then report it to one of these guys who need the information to help with their surveys.
We'd been talking about going up to Lewis and Harris for ages; for stone-hunting reasons of course but also because of my good memories from the very brief trip I took up there with work a few years ago. I had to go back - And this time I had a new camera to play with, and someone to show it all to!
We flew up from Glasgow to Stornoway on my birthday, to stay for three nights at Leumadair Guest House.
I have to comment on the travelling bit, I'm afraid, because it's as much an enjoyable part of the holiday for me as the getting-there.
We were flying out mid afternoon so had lunch in the Food Village upstairs, in a little place that does freshly-squeezed orange juice and real healthy meals, not your usual airport fare - nice! (Just go past all the tartan toys, over the bridge and it's on your right in the far corner.)
The plane was a little Saab number with a beast under the bonnet. Unfortunately it was cloudy for most of the 1-hour journey, but when we descended we were travelling low over the sea so I entertained myself trying to spot dorsal fins or interesting birds. I'd been to Lewis once before and travelled by ferry from Ullapool and there were loads of twitchers on the upper deck with their binocks trying to spot - I dunno, an albatross or something.
The airport in Stornoway is fantastic! At first, we taxied past a large green hangar which I was joking was the terminal building - well the real one wasn't much bigger! It was all so personal. I love these little places. As soon as we were off so were the bags and it wasn't long before we were seeking out the car hire woman. A Clio! Perfect! Just like home.
Somehow, the hire-car woman left without giving us the folder containing maps, leaflets, emergency contact details etc. I've no idea how this happened - one minute she was talking us through it, the next she was driving off and we were sitting there in the drizzle wondering which way to Callanish!
Luckily, the roads aren't that complicated. I guessed a road and guessed it right. I recognised it from last time - turn left before the hospital. Easy!
Soon we were driving onto the moors of Lewis. Lush! I love this countryside; the peaty, heather landscape feels so homely and familiar. As we drove onwards it wasn't long before we saw signs for Callanish - or actually Callanais in big letters with Callanish underneath. Driving through the Western Isles is like driving through Wales in many ways. There were times when I felt like this was a foreign country, but then I'd remember that this is Scotland, isn't it?
A vivid memory I have of this part of the trip was the music playing on the radio - it was Stuart Maconie talking about Laurie Anderson's reissue of Big Science and he played bits from Walk the Dog, O Superman and Let X=X. Brilliant! I had a smile on my face the whole time, fantastic! :D
It took three drive-bys to get the right gate for Leumadair guest house - first impressions were slightly Deliverencesque, but we got a fine welcome from both humans and cats and the room couldn't have been nicer - gobsmacking view from the window over to the standing stones of Callanish - and my first photo!
(It was to be the first of many...)
We quickly got changed and visited Those Stones (how could we resist it any longer?), then on to Dun Carloway before stopping at the Doune Braes Hotel, to have a warming plateful of lamb hotpot.
Did I mention that the weather was officially "bloody freezing"? I shouldn't complain too loudly - the rest of the UK to our south was experiencing all that horrible rain and flooding - the rain stayed away from us thanks to the northerly winds blasting down; but this meant that the two fleeces, two hats, waterproof and glove ensemble I donned for most of the trip wasn't really cutting it!
Oh yeah and did I also mention that our room had no TV? I mean - shock horror, how would we cope?! Well we did; we stayed out late, and read maps and tourist leaflets until we flaked.
The Stones, from our window
Closer-up
Gratuitous but inevitable use of the colour-fiddling setting!
Testing the macro - a Callanish orchid
Dun Carloway. With this camera I can take wide-screen format pics without having to edit them afterwards... Fantastic, saves lots of time.
The steps inside the Dun's walls
One of the stones inside the Dun - the Lewisian Gneiss looks like gorgeous marbled cake.
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