Tuesday, March 27, 2007

The Old Kirkyards of Tongland and Senwick

Last Weekend, we continued our exploration of Borders Kirkyards by visiting two places geographically not far apart but very different in atmosphere and approach!


Firstly, we stopped at Tongland Abbey, found by following the appropriately-named Monks Way, just off the A711 through Tongland near Kirkcudbright.

The Abbey itself is in a piteous state, dangerous and in bad repair now. In the grounds there is also the ruins of a small church. The churchyard is well-manicured and very close to some houses. A mausoleum for the Neilson family takes pride of place (apparently, James Neilson was the inventor of the hot-blast system of iron-smelting). The motto, "Presto Pro Patria" appears above the entrance with a bearded bloke holding a hammer, the motto meaning perhaps "Ready for the Mother country".


The other names on the gravestones below are George Frater, Isabella Graham, Robert John Rae, and Isabella Kyle. We learnt later that one of B's ancestors is in this graveyard so we will return.















Next, we drove through Kirkcudbright and round the western side of the Bay. We parked near Balmangan, and found the footpath leading firstly across fields then into woods. The wild flowers in the woods were between snowdrops and bluebells, and in full throw of lesser celandine (which looks remarkably like a buttercup, but much more delicate)



The woods betrayed the fact that in fact we were very close to the coastline, and after catching a glimpse of one wonderful secluded beach we couldn't resist a visit. The local geology makes the pebbles here very flat and a lovely grey/blue colour, contrasting beautifully with the red sand. I loved the way the beach just "starts" very quickly turning from trees and grass to rocks and sand.








Further through the woods, we found the kirkyard of Senwick (NX65534601). The most prominent building is a mausoleum for the Blair family of Dunrod, in fact there were quite a few Blair graves and also Sproat, including one paid for by a descendant in the USA who was also buried here. I loved the little groudlevel slate slab which simply reads "HEIR LYS CORPS OF SPROT AN". There was also a stone on the top of the wall engraved with graffiti in 1920 by RJ Paterson, JPS?

















We could just make out the rubble of the old church and behind it the taller manse, both abandonded in 1670. It's so impressive that there is anything left of these places at all! A wonderful little churchyard, preserved by the fact that there is no easy and direct path to it now. Senwick was given to Tongland Abbey by David II in c.1355 and the parish was united with Borgue in 1670, along with Kirkandrews, presumably why Senwick was abandoned.


I find old graveyards enormously interesting, and often think of the present family, perhaps in other areas of the world, who are connected to the people buried beneath.


After returning back along the path, we made our way to the Cream of Galloway visitors centre for lunch. We could actually make out the tree-climbing section this time of year! Maybe next time we'll have a go.


Next, we went on a rockart hunt to Barharrow, which was a bit of a wild goose chase. On the way home we stopped to take some shots of Chapelcross, but that's another story!



Route to Senwick here

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